Santa Barbara's Essential Guide

Celebrating the Cuisine of Nice & the Côte d’Azur

As a young chef in training, James Sly worked at the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo way back in the good old days of the 1970s. He found the work intoxicating - beautiful food, working in one of the world's super luxury hotels on a coordinated team of 50 cooks (!) just in the main kitchen. As beautiful as the work was, his one day off of work was even better, often going to the "big city", which in this case was Nice, a 30 minute train ride up the beautiful coast from Monte Carlo. The colorful markets, the street food, the smells and flavors - it was a symphony of great taste. Nice, like Monte Carlo, is not unlike Santa Barbara, bordered by the clear blue ocean on one side and steep hills on the other. James bought cookbooks - old traditional ones like Reboul "La Cuisinière Provençal and Medécin "Cuisine Niçoise", an English version which is available here, and more "modern" ones like Richard Olney's "Simple French Food" - and studied them, and talked about the recipes with the staff at the hotel - few people in the south of France are short of opinions, and some lively conversations resulted among the cooks he worked with.

The food of Nice is Provençal - don't say Italian! - and James happens to think that it is one of France's great cuisines. Garlic, fennel, zucchinis and peppers, fresh fish from the coast, all figure promenently in Niçoise cuisine. There's Bouillabaisse, of course, but there's also the voluptuous Bourride, a velvety fish stew we've included on our menu this month. James hopes you can find some of the wonderful flavors he experienced in his first and subsequent visits to "Nice the Beautiful".

So, with that in mind, here's Sly's latest 3 course fixed price menu, which is just $35. per person, plus tip and tax. $55. per person with two glasses of wine. (We recommend the rosé with this menu!) You'll notice that there's a great three-course meal for vegetarians hidden in there, too.

FIRST COURSE

Aubergines à la Niçoise

Marinated Eggplant with Anchovies & Onions

Fenouille braisée aux Tomates - Fresh Farmer’s Market Fennel, braised with tomatoes

Moules Marinére, mussels steamed in white wine with shallots 

MAIN COURSE

“Merda de Cana” - Nice's typical Gratin of Spinach Gnocci au Pistou. 

Braised Duck Leg “aux Olives”, Pilaf Rice - Canard aux olives is one of many duck dishes from around Nice.

A Bourride of Local fishes - Garlicky fish stew with potatoes, local halibut, sea bass, and snapper.

 La vraie Ratatouille accompanies all main courses.  

DESSERTS

Warm Clafoutis of Mixed Berries 

Nougat Glacé aux Oranges - A lighter frozen mousse with homemade candied orange peel and an orange sauce. 

Mousse au Chocolat Mi-Amer

Warm fresh Chèvre with Acacia Honey